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Archive for the 'Loans' Category

How to shop for a Home Equity Loan

Monday, July 10th, 2006

 Need a way to pay off credit card debt, pay for home improvements, or wedding? If you need cash for whatever reason, a home equity loan may be the answer.  

These loans are based on the amount of equity, or the difference between the value of your home and the amount you owe, you have in your home. Many packages enable you to borrow up to 70 to 90 percent of your equity.

Compared to mortgages, home equity loans generally offer lower interest rates, and are a “hot product” offered by several competing banks and lending institutions. Shop around to make sure you are getting the best deal.

When shopping for a home equity loan, be aware of the following:

  • Many institutions will offer low “teaser rates” for the first year of the loan. Make sure you
    calculate the interest rate for the full term of the loan .
  • Include any fees the lender may tack on to the loan.
  • Remember, the loan with the lowest monthly payment may not be the least expensive one.
  • Know how many payments you will need to make, the total amount you are borrowing, and the total amount you are repaying.

By comparing different loan quotes and doing your homework before you sign an application, you will be better informed and will be more likely to get the best deal on a home equity loan.

By David Plowman

Is a Home Equity Credit Line a Good Alternative for you?

Monday, July 10th, 2006

A home equity line can be a good alternative to a home equity loan. With a home equity line, you are given a line of credit and issued blank checks. You are charged only on amount you use, not on how much your line of credit is. 

This may provide you with a much greater flexibility if you don’t know how much a particular project, like a home renovation, will cost you over an extended period of time.

Additionally, your pay back options may be more flexible. With a home equity loan, you will have to make established monthly payments over the term of your loan. With a line, your payment is based on the amount of credit you used, so you have greater control of your payback amount.

When shopping for a equity credit line, compare the “draw period,” or the length of time you can write checks against your equity. In many cases, banks offer a draw period of up to 10 years, and offer a repayment window of an additional five years.

Make sure to check your credit line checks secure. Since any amount written goes against the equity in your home, the consequences of having them fall into the wrong hands could be great.

Depending on your financial needs, a home equity line may be a flexible alternative to a home equity loan.

By David Plowman

Who Qualifies for a Reverse Home Mortgage?

Monday, July 10th, 2006

A reverse mortgage can be a way for senior citizens who own their own home to pay for daily expenses, medical bills, or in some cases, even a vacation. The program works by allowing these homeowners to borrow against the equity in their home without having to repay the loan so long as they continue to live in their house.

To qualify for a Home Equity Conversion Mortgage (or HECM, a reverse mortgage insured by the government), participants must meet the following requirements:

  • All of the homeowners must be 62 years old or older and live in the house as the primary residence.
  • Have a fully-paid mortgage, or a small mortgage that can be paid off with at the loan’s closing with the proceeds from the reverse mortgage.
  • Applicants must attend a counseling session with an approved counselor.
  • Applicants must live in a single-family house, a townhouse, be the homeowner in an owner-occupied two to four unit dwelling, or in a planned unit development. Some types of manufactured housing is eligible, however most mobile homes or co-ops are not.
  • The qualifying dwelling must be at least one year old, and it must meet HUD’s minimum property standards. However, if repairs are needed, they can be funded through the loan.

For more information, or to find out if you qualify for a reverse mortgage, call 800 559-4287 to find an approved HECM counselor.

By David Plowman

Being in debt doesn’t mean you can be harassed by bill collectors

Friday, July 7th, 2006

If you are in debt, chances are you have had the unpleasant experience of dealing with bill collectors. As difficult as this experience is, you can make the experience easier on yourself if you know your rights and don’t let them harass you.

The Fair Debt and Collection Practices Act, puts limitations on what third-party collection companies can do. (A third party collection company is an agency that attempts to collect on another person’s debt. The law does not apply to a creditor’s in-house debt collectors.) If you fall behind on certain bills and are being contacted by a collection agency, understand there are certain things bill collectors can not do:

  • Call you at inconvenient times. Generally, bill collectors can only call you between the hours of 8am and 9pm, unless you agree to be contacted at other times. However, “inconvenient” can vary from person to person. For example, if you work the third shift and sleep during the day, an 11am call can be inconvenient, and you can ask collectors not to call you at that time.
  • Call you at work if you advise them your employer does not allow such calls. It is generally up to your discretion to decide if your employer allows such calls. You do not need your supervisor to tell the collector the employer frowns on the calls.
  • Inform friends and family members about your debt. Bill collectors can only report specific information regarding your debt to the original creditor, credit reporting agencies, or your attorney. While they may contact your friends and family members to get limited information such as your contact information and where you work, they cannot inform these parties any details of your account.
  • Contact you if you have an attorney. If you have an attorney, a bill collector must deal with your attorney, the collect cannot contact you directly.
  • Make false claims. Bill collectors can not claim you may serve jail time if you don’t pay, threaten to garnish your wages, liquidate your property, or file a lawsuit if they have no legitimate plans to do so.
  • Make threats or harassing statements. Collectors are forbidden from making any threats of violence against you, nor can they use profane language.

Finally, according to the Act, you can contact a collector in writing and tell them to stop contacting you. The collector may then can communicate with you to verify they will cease contacting you or to inform you that the creditor or collector intend to take a specific action. However, this does not absolve you of the debt, nor does it prevent you from being sued by either the creditor or collector.

By knowing your rights, and what bill collectors can and cannot do, you may relieve some of the stress of this situation and keep your focus on your primary goal of getting out of debt.

By David Plowman
 411Web provides finance ideas for its readers. Our postings, articles and e-mail responses are not meant as to serve as personal advice, nor are they endorsements of any investment or personal finance strategy. Any financial or investment plan must take into consideration an individual’s personal experience and circumstances. Individuals may want to contact their investment or tax advisor on these subjects.

Develop a plan to get out of credit card debt

Friday, July 7th, 2006

Carrying a lot of credit card debt can take both a emotional and financial burden. It can create a sense of helplessness. It can be very easy to become frustrated that nothing you can do will remedy the problem. It can be easy to become depressed and to shy away from the problem.

But financial hurdles, just like other problems, are best faced head-on with a definite, slow-but-steady plan.  Remember, your goal is not to be debt-free tomorrow, but to be less in debt than you were a month ago. With the right amount of discipline and planning, you can gain the upper hand with your debts.

The first step to becoming debt-free is probably the most emotionally taxing one, figuring out exactly how much you owe. This step can be as painful as it is necessary. Take a hard look at all of your bills. When listing your credit card debt, note the total balance due, the interest rate and the minimum payments. While it may be depressing to take this step, remember that you are doing this to drive yourself out of debt, not into despair. In order to develop a strategy to solve this problem, you need to shine a harsh light on your finances, and look at the cold, hard numbers.

Once you have your credit card bills gathered in one place, your next step should be to break up your collection of plastic. Keep only the two cards with the lowest interest rates, and commit yourself to using them only in cases of emergency. Your goal of getting out of debt will be nearly impossible if you pile new debt on top of old.

Next, if you have any credit card balances with low balances that can be paid off in one or two payments (as you continue to make the minimum payments on your other cards), consider paying them off first. This may provide a much needed, well-deserved motivational push if you are able to quickly eliminate one or two credit card balances.

When tackling credit cards with significantly higher balances, take another look at your debt tally sheet and attack the credit card with the highest interest rate. Continue paying the minimum balances on the other cards. One simple way to keep up on the minimum balances to sign up for an automatic bill payment service, so the minimum fee is deducted from your checking account automatically.

When deciding how much to pay on your highest interest credit card, the key is to stretch yourself as much as you can, without going past your breaking point. Definitely cut back on some perks or extras in your life (For example, you can save as much as $3 a day by switching your daily latte habit for a regular cup of joe at the local coffee shop), or see if there are simple, everyday ways tosave money. But at the same time, remember that your credit card debt is not your most important bill. Definitely prioritize, put your mortgage or rent payments and transportation costs and food above your debt.

Once you have paid down the card with the highest interest rate, repeat the process with the next highest rate and on down the line until you have successfully paid down your cards.

Once you have successfully paid down your credit card debt, consider extending the same strategy for a few months to developing a savings account. Instead of paying your creditors, you will be “paying yourself,” and developing a nest egg so you will be able to weather future financial storms.

By David Plowman
 

411Web provides finance ideas for its readers. Our postings, articles and e-mail responses are not meant as to serve as personal advice, nor are they endorsements of any investment or personal finance strategy. Any financial or investment plan must take into consideration an individual’s personal experience and circumstances. Individuals may want to contact their investment or tax advisor on these subjects.

Paying nothing could cost you

Wednesday, July 5th, 2006

 Periodically, the major automakers will roll out one of their favorite incentive plans. “Zero percent financing!!” the commercial blares. Variations on this theme may also include other “zeros” such as zero down payment or zero payments for a year.

Of course, automakers are trying to create a “wow” factor, hoping that you will get off the recliner and schlep your old jalopy to the dealership before five paragraphs of fine print blip across your TV screen.

But if you’re a speed reader with super human vision, you’ll notice the devil is in the details as the fine prints contains many qualifiers that may take a lot of the wow out of the deal. (If you have the reading abilities of a mere mortal, you can catch the fine print of the promotional rate on-line or at the dealership.)

When looking at the offer, watch for several key phrases which may act as spoilers for the offer:

  • Am I a well-qualified buyer? Only buyers with the highest of credit scores will be eligible for the zero percent offers It is estimated that only 15 percent of the buyers will qualify for the offer.
  • How long will my low interest rate last? Just as credit cards offer “low teaser rates” for the first few months, the auto dealers’ rate could increase after a year or so. Make sure you know what the interest rate will be after the promotional rate expires.
  • What is the length of the loan? In some cases these zero financing offers may require that you have to pay the loan off in three years instead of five. Make sure you can make the monthly payment. A $350 monthly payment with interest may be more affordable than a $500 payment with no interest.
  • What offers am I passing up? The fine print may also say the zero financing is not valid with other offers. So if they are offering a cash-back dealer incentive, you will have to choose between to the two offers. To decide which is better, you will have to do some serious number crunching.
  • How much am I financing? Say the dealer is offering its triple threat, zero financing, zero down and zero payments for a year. As good as it may feel to drive off the car lot without handing the dealer one thin dime, keep in mind that you are ultimately going to have to pay for the pleasure. When the interest and payments start coming due at the end of that year, you’ll be charged interest on the entire cost of the car. You may have been better off making a $1,000 down payment to avoid having that amount of interest charged.

Additionally, don’t get so distracted by the lure of zero financing offers that you forget to negotiate on the price of the car. Car buying experts suggest that you agree on the price of the car before you even discuss financing (or a trade-in for that matter). As discussed here earlier, it may also be a good idea to shop around for the best loan program before a you shop for a new car. If you are pre-approved for a loan by another bank or credit-union, you may not feel so beholden to the auto dealership’s financing offer or its fine print.

By David Plowman

How to shop for the best mortgage

Friday, June 9th, 2006

Whether mortgage rates are decreasing or on the rise, one thing will always remain constant, you will always want to get the best deal on your mortgage. After all, shaving a percentage point off your interest rate, paying fewer points or reducing your closing costs could add up to big savings over the course of your loan. 

Before you begin shopping for a loan, you should estimate the total loan amount and the monthly payments you can afford. Begin by calling local banks and lending institutions, or by researching lenders on the internet. If you have a checking account at a bank or credit union, make sure to contact them, as they might give a deal to existing customers.

When looking for a mortgage, find out if you are dealing with a lender or a broker.(Click a here for more information about the difference between the two.)

But whether you are going through a broker or directly through a lender, understand that  these companies operate competitively, so you should shop around for the best deal on the “product” you are buying (your loan) just as you shop for any major purchase. It is recommended that you call at least three lenders or brokers to get the best deal.

When you talk to them, remember that the loan with the lowest monthly payments may not be the best deal. That’s because lenders structure their loans differently, and some may have higher closing costs than others, while other loans may require a larger down payment than others.

Instead, you should ask each lender or broker the same questions about loan. Make sure to ask them:

  • What is the minimum down payment?
  • What is the length of the loan?
  • What is the interest rate?
  • What is the annual percentage rate (APR)? (This number, expressed as a yearly rate. It includes the interest rate, points, broker fees, and any other loan charges.)
  • Are any points included in the loan?
  • Are there any monthly private mortgage insurance premiums (MPI) included in the loan? If so, how long must you keep the insurance?
  • What escrow payments are needed?
  • What will the total estimated monthly payment be? (This should include the principal, interest, taxes, insurance costs, and any PMI costs.)

In addition to these loan costs which are generally part of your monthly loan payment,  there are several other payments you may need to pay at the closing of your loan. Keep in mind that different lenders may have different names for these fees and may that they may have additional charges.

These fees include:

  • Application or loan processing fee.
  • Origination or loan processing fee.
  • Lender fee or funding fee.
  • Appraisal fee.
  • Attorney fee.
  • Document preparation fee.
  • Broker fee.
  • Credit report fee.

After you have found a loan program you are satisfied with, you may want to ask to see if the prices you were quoted can be “locked-in.” Doing so could protect you from having to pay increased fees if rates rise from when you were quoted the loan price. Some lenders may charge for this, but the fee may be refunded at the time of the loan’s closing.

By putting in some extra legwork when you shop for a home loan, you could save thousands of dollars.

By David Plowman

Understand the difference between a mortgage lender and a mortgage broker

Thursday, June 8th, 2006

For most of us, purchasing a home also involves getting a loan to cover the cost. With such a wide variety of loan programs available, it is important to shop around to make sure that you are getting the best loan program available.

As you do this, you’ll soon realize there are two ways of finding a home loan. You can deal with lenders directly, or you can go through a broker. There are critical differences between the two, and  its important that you understand what those differences are,

A lender (for instance your bank or your credit union) will work with you directly to transact the loan. The loan representative may have several different loan programs for you to choose from, however, all of the loan options are managed by that particular lender.

On the other hand, a mortgage broker will arrange the loan between you and a lender. The potential advantage to this is that brokers work with several different lenders and therefore may have access to more mortgage programs than you would if you worked directly with a lender.

Once the broker receives your loan application, the broker is in contact with several different lenders, and will attempt to match your needs with a loan program from one of several lenders the broker works with.

Because of this, might be able to find you a cheaper loan than if you contacted lenders directly. Additionally, brokers may be particularly helpful if you have specialized loan needs. For example, if you have a poor credit history, your local lender may reject your application while brokers may be able to find a lender who will work with you.

If you decide to use a mortgage broker, it is important to remember that while the broker may not charge you directly for their services, you will probably still wind up flipping the bill. That’s because the broker charges the lender, who in turn adds the broker’s fee to the loan fees.

Keep in mind that since different brokers may work with different lenders, you can’t place just one call to a broker to ensure you are getting the best loan. Instead, you should contact several different brokers, just as you would if you were contacting different lenders.

Be aware that brokers may not advertise themselves as such, if you are not sure if you are dealing with a mortgage lender or a broker, be sure to ask them

Deciding on whether to get your home loan from a broker or directly lender depends on your individual needs. You should access certain factors such as your credit score, the type of loan you are looking for, and the specific loan programs they can offer you. But knowing the differences between the two and how each one works is an important first step in deciding whether to get a loan from a broker or a to go directly through the lender.

By David Plowman

Options for repaying student loans

Friday, March 24th, 2006

So you’ve just graduated from college and are ready to begin a new career.

Congratulations! Getting a degree is a tremendous accomplishment. You probably have opened yourself up to jobs that may not of have been available had you not earned your degree. And just as important, if not more so, you have learned valuable life lessons about responsibility, independent living and the importance of hard work and self-discipline.

But if you are like most recent grads, there’s one thing you achieved that you aren’t too proud of. You’ve wracked up quite a debt on your student loan. Well, you’re not alone, according to a study by the National Center for Education Statistics, 65 percent of the students who graduated during the 1999-2000 academic year took out a loan to help pay for college.

While you will have to pay the loan back, most lenders will offer several options to make repayment easier:

Level Repayment plans: With this plan, your monthly loan payment with be one fixed amount for the term of your loan, whether you’ve graduated a year ago or five years ago. If you can afford the monthly payments, this plan will ultimately accrue the least amount of interest, and will cost you the least in interest payments and will cost you the least over the long haul.

Graduated Repayment Plans: Here, your monthly repayment balance starts low, but gradually increases over time. At the plan’s outset, you will pay $50 a month or the interest payments on the loan, whichever amount is greater. If you are starting a career where your initial salary is low, but will increase significantly as you advance, this plan may be best for you. However, be aware this plan will ultimately cost you more because the principal (amount you borrowed) will still accrue interest.

Income-Sensitive Plan: Under this plan, your monthly payment is equal to one percent of your monthly income, or the interest due on your loan, whichever is greater. This plan may reduce your monthly payments, however could be the costliest over the course of your loan.  To qualify you will have to submit a verification of your monthly income (such as copies of your paycheck) and you will have to renew annually.

If you are unable to make any payments, or if you are taking additional coursework, you may qualify for deferment or forbearance.

Deciding on what payment plan is best for you may help take some of the sting out of making your payments, and allow you to make the most of your newly-earned degree.

By David Plowman

Who Qualifies for a Reverse Home Mortgage?

Monday, March 20th, 2006

A reverse mortgage can be a way for senior citizens who own their own home to pay for daily expenses, medical bills, or in some cases, even a vacation. The program works by allowing these homeowners to borrow against the equity in their home without having to repay the loan so long as they continue to live in their house. To qualify for a Home Equity Conversion Mortgage (or HECM, a reverse mortgage insured by the government), participants must meet the following requirements:

  • All of the homeowners must be 62 years old or older and live in the house as the primary residence.
  • Have a fully-paid mortgage, or a small mortgage that can be paid off with at the loan’s closing with the proceeds from the reverse mortgage.
  • Applicants must attend a counseling session with an approved counselor.
  • Applicants must live in a single-family house, a townhouse, be the homeowner in an owner-occupied two to four unit dwelling, or in a planned unit development. Some types of manufactured housing is eligible, however most mobile homes or co-ops are not.
  • The qualifying dwelling must be at least one year old, and it must meet HUD’s minimum property standards.  However, if repairs are needed, they can be funded through the loan.

For more information, or to find out if you qualify for a reverse mortgage, call 800 559-4287 to find an approved HECM counselor.

 By David Plowman